|8 – 10 hours|
|Moderate radiates within arm length|
Mandarina duck pure black from the house of idesa parfums is an urbane fragrance launched in 2009 . The creation of perfumer Nathalie Lorson of Firmenich targets the unconventional carefree man of today.
Pure Black is the company’s second scent, didn’t exactly abandon the original concept—the fragrance is still orange-based (and created by the same perfumer, Nathalie Lorson), and the bottle is shaped the same—but the masculinity factor is amped up a bit. “We realized we had focused too much on the Mandarina Duck brand with Man,” a company rep told fashion and fragrance editors at a publicity event at Barney’s, pointing to the clear and orange bottle. “Pure Black focuses on what men want.”
That’s true, but there’s a disconnect between the Pure Black name and the citrusy fragrance. It starts out with bergamot and tangerine, spiced with pepper, and warms to orange blossom and tonka bean, finally drying down with cedar, sandalwood and vanilla. When I sprayed it on a card, I wasn’t impressed; on the skin it’s much better. Used sparingly, it’s a nice warm-weather scent: orange notes provide some of the freshness of lemon but linger longer. Vanilla softens the citrus edge. I prefer the fresh top notes to the basenotes, which smell a little less adventurous, a little more ordinary to me.
The woody and powdery fragrance has been beautifully blended with the balmy and herbal notes. It is for the intense and the gentle virile. The top note is composed of citrus bergamot and tangerine that has been spiced up with pepper. The heart is a floral bed of tiare flower, african orange flower rounded with tonka bean. The woody base has combination of sandalwood and virginia cedar with the smoothness of vanilla.
This is a great scent, to be sure, but it is also slightly overwhelming at times. This should not be used as a boy’s first cologne or for someone who is heavy handed. Definitely ease up on the application!
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